The area most frequented by foreign
climbers is the Nun-Kun Massif in the
Great Himalayan Range. Its easy accessiblity
from the Kargil-Pudum road and the shortest
possible approach march to the base
camps makes this massif the most attractive
climbing destination in the Great Himalaya,
necessitating advance booking years
ahead. Among its six known peaks accessible
from the Suru Valley, Nun (7,135m) and
Kun (7,077m ) are the highest summits.
The area nearest to Leh is Stok-khangri
Massif in the Zanskar mountains, south
of Leh. The base camp for the various
peaks of this massif is about two days
trek from the village of Stok. Among
its known peaks, Stok-khangri (6,150
m) is the highes; it offers a spectacular
perspective to the central expanse of
the Indus valley which it dominates.
Other peaks in the area include Gulap
Khangri (5,900 m), Matho West (5,950m)
and Kantak (5,275 m). The much higher
Konglacha peak (6,700m) lies south-west
of Leh and is reached via Rubak on the
first leg of the Markha Valley trek
from Stok. Many un-named peaks in the
altitude range of 5,500 metres and 6,400
metres are also available for climbing
in the same region. This entire area
falls well outside the Inner Line, or
restricted area.
North of Leh, across the Ladakh Range
and the Nubra Valley, lies the Karokoram
range. It soars to a number of known
peaks which are, however, within the
restricted area and so not freely accessible
to foreign climbers except with special
permission from the Government of India.
The most prominent summits in this range
which are accessible from various parts
of the Nubra Vally include, Saser-I
(7,415 m), Saser -II (7,513m ) and Saser
III (7,495 m).
The climbing season extends from mid
- May to mid -October, the ideal period
being from June to September because
during this time only Ladakh remains
unaffected by the monsoon which holds
sway over most of the Himalaya. Foreign
climbing expeditions are required to
obtain permission from the Indian Mountaineering
Foundation for climbing all listed peaks.
A booking fee, based on the height and
popularity of the allotted peak, is
charged and a Liasion Officer is assigned
to every climbing team. The minimum
period required for processing applications
is six months. Every authorized expedition
is provided with adequate rescue coverage
in the events of accidents and illness.
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